Land of the Tiger

An excursion through India’s Animal Kingdom

At last I saw it. The unmistakable glow of the striped coat: the powerful, unhurried, silent walk. It was my first tiger, confidently strolling down the middle of the road. The power and pure beauty of the moment cast a spell which was to become a driving passion in my life in the months and years ahead

Valmik Thapar TIGER EXPERT

From the tropical rain forests to the snowy heights of the Himalayas, India’s varied environment is home to a vast range of wildlife, including the Royal Bengal Tiger, which thrives in some of the world’s most stunning National Parks. An experienced guide will accompany the tour, In addition to the wealth of wildlife, the journey also offers the opportunity to visit Delhi, the famous temples of Khajuraho, the magnificent Taj Mahal and the forts and havelis (Indian mansions) of Jaipur.

ROUTE: Delhi – Jhansi – Khajuraho – Bandhavgarh – Kanha – Jabalpur – Agra – Bharatpur – Ranthambhore – Jaipur – Delhi.

Best Time: November to Mid March.
Suggest Time: Mid March to Mid April ( Although it is hot, but fallen leaves, and less water results in best mammal watching conditions

Day 1, Arrive Delhi.
Arrive Delhi around midnight, and transfer to pre-booked hotel for one night. Perhaps there is no other capital city in the world so steeped in history and legend as the Indian capital, Delhi. Like a magnet it drew the Mongols, Turks, Persians, Afghans, Mughals, and finally the British, to its shores; all of whom contributed to its glorious albeit turbulent history. The fascination with Delhi was such that even though it was abandoned many times, its rulers returned to it again and again, rebuilding it at least seven times.

Day 2, Delhi sightseeing.
Morning free to re-charge. Afternoon Old Delhi Tour (half day): Shah Jahan founded the city of Shahjahanabad in 1648, now referred to as Old Delhi. The famous Red Fort in the heart of Old Delhi was once the most opulent fort of the Mughal Empire and it boasts of Diwan-I-Am (Hall of Private Audience), among other architectural delights. Opposite the fort is the Jama Masjid, one of the largest mosques in the world, also built by Shah Jahan.

Breakfast and overnight in hotel.

Day 3, Delhi – Jhansi (train) – Jhansi – Khajuraho drive 170kms/3hrs.
Early morning transfer to the railway station for train to Jhansi, by super fast Shatabdi express leaving Delhi at 0600hrs. Arrive Jhansi at 1030hrs (breakfast on board); drive about 3hrs to the erotic city of Khajuraho. Thousand years ago, in the heart of India, artisans of the Chandela dynasty built the spectacular temples at Khajuraho, which were to become famed for their exquisite carvings and erotic sculptures. The sculptures, which were rediscovered by an English soldier in 1839, are said to portray the rite of creation in which both body and soul are involved. Of the original 85 temples only 22 now survive. Arrival and transfer to the hotel for one night. Afternoon guided visit to the Chandela Hindu temples, which represent some of the finest examples of temple architecture in northern India. The remaining temples have been beautifully restored and are in excellent condition. Visit the Kandariya Mahadeva, the Chhatrabhuj, Parswanath and Ghantai temples, each remarkable for its beautiful design and architecture.

Breakfast on board and overnight in hotel.

Day 4, Khajuraho- Bandhavgarh National Park (drive).
After early breakfast, drive about 240kms/7hrs through fascinating countryside to Bandhavgarh National Park. Bandhavgarh is truly one of India’s magnificent wildernesses with a relative abundance of tigers and an imposing fort atop a plateau which dates back to 300 AD. However its true claim to international fame is the discovery of white tigers by the Maharaja of the princely state of Rewa, in 1951. Unfortunately white tigers are not found in the wild state anymore and survive only in the various zoos around the world. The progeny of the white tigers captured by the Maharaja can be seen at the National Zoological Garden in New Delhi. The Park covers an area of around 448km2 and ` although the National Park was constituted in 1968, this area has been a centre of human activity and settlement for over 2000 years. Legend has it that the fort at Bandhavgarh which lends its name to the National Park and literally translated means “Brother’s Fort” (Bandhav = brother; Garh = fort), was given to Lakshman by his brother Lord Rama, hero of epic Ramayana, to keep watch over Lanka, ruled by the demon king Ravana. At one time around 10th-14th century AD, this region was ruled by the Chandela dynasty, which built the famous temples of Khajuraho. Presence of adequate water-bodies, grasslands and dense forests make Bandhavgarh an ideal habitat for the animal life of the region. 25 varieties of mammals inhabit the jungles of Bandhavgarh and Nilgai, Chowsingha, Chinkara, Wild Boar, Jackal, Wild Dog, Fox, Porcupine, Ratel and three species of deer – Chital, Sambar and Barasingha – may be seen in the Park, along with the Leopard and the Royal Bengal Tiger. Nearly 250 species of birds have been spotted inside the Park which include Hornbills, Leafbirds, Woodshrikes, Drongos, Fantails, Bee-eaters, Parakeets and Flycatchers, to name a few. As the Park is relatively new this checklist is not exhaustive and keen birdwatchers have ample scope of discovering more birds and adding to the current list. Evening jeep safari: dinner and overnight in jungle resort.

Breakfast, dinner and overnight in hotel.

Day 5, Bandhavgarh.
Early morning and evening jeep safari, to view wildlife with Naturalist. Afternoon visit to the Fort or just relax by the pool. Breakfast, lunch, dinner and overnight in Resort.

Breakfast, lunch, dinner and overnight in hotel.

Day 6, Bandhavgarh – Kanha National Park.
Early morning Jeep safari with Naturalist: after breakfast drive about 245kms/7hrs, through a lovely countryside to Kanha National Park. Romanticised by Kipling in his book, Kanha National Park is among the most spectacular, protected wildlife reserves of the world. The 1,945 km² National Park has been compared to N’Gorongoro National Park of Tanzania. However like its African cousin, Kanha is not a volcanic crater though the surrounding hills are a result of geographically ancient volcanic activity. Above all Kanha is far greener and more densely wooded than N’Gorongoro. It is one of the largest and best monitored Parks in the subcontinent and definitely one of the best places in the world to see the critically endangered tiger in the wild. The great sal forests of Kanha National Park, stretching across Maikal hills of Satpura range, have given birth to many jungle adventures, especially the much loved English classic by Rudyard Kipling – The Jungle Book. Kipling based his tale on the wildlife of Kanha in the late 19th century and thus Kanha is also known as ‘Kipling Country’. The grassy plateaux, wooded hills and valleys of Kanha are home to the legendary Shere Khan the Tiger, loveable Baloo the Bear, wise Bagheera the Panther and the dreaded Rock Python Kaa. Besides them several great and small mammals, reptiles and birds inhabit the Park including the largest ox in the world – the Gaur. The National Park is particularly notable, besides the tiger, for a 300lb, brown, large-antlered, hard-hoofed deer, because of which the foundation of conservation and protection was laid in the Maikal hills. Even more zealously protected in Kanha is the southern or Central Indian race of the Swamp Deer – the Hard-ground or the Branderi Barasingha. Birdlife of the region is equally astounding and more than 350 avian species have been recorded here with the possibility of sighting yet new races, thus giving the avid birdwatcher great scope for new discoveries. Mynas, Bush Chats, Kingfishers, Treepies, Orioles, Lapwings, Falcons, Kites, Owls, Vultures and various other species of our flying friends will provide unlimited hours of pleasure to those who choose to seek them. Dinner & overnight in jungle resort.

Breakfast, dinner and overnight in hotel.

Day 7, Kanha – Safari.
Morning and evening Jeep safari with Naturalist. Afternoon free to relax by the pool. Breakfast, lunch, dinner and overnight in Resort.
Breakfast, lunch, dinner and overnight in hotel.

Day 8, – Kanha – Safari.
Morning and evening Jeep safari with Naturalist. Afternoon free to relax by the pool. Breakfast, lunch, dinner and overnight in Resort.
Breakfast, lunch, dinner and overnight in hotel.

Day 9, Kanha – Jabalpur (drive/train).
Morning Jeep Safari, after breakfast drive 175kms/ 3hrs to the railhead at Jabalpur: board afternoon train at 1530hrs to Agra. Overnight on train (AC 1st class).

Breakfast in hotel and overnight in train.

Day 10, Arrive Agra :
Arrive Agra very early morning, assistance on arrival and transfer to the hotel. Morning free. Afternoon visist to The Red Fort and sunset visit to the Taj Mahal. Overnight in hotel.

The earliest reference to Agra can be found in the epic Mahabharata where it is referred to as Agravana. After breakfast, visit India’s most celebrated monument the Taj Mahal, built as a monument of eternal love by Shah Jahan in memory of his beloved queen Mumtaz; the Taj Mahal looks amazingly graceful from every angle. It was built over a period of 20 years by 20,000 labourers and craftsmen and displays superb craftsmanship. The close up details of the Taj Mahal are as exquisite as the overall architectural design, with semi-precious stones and beautiful patterns adorning the marble surface.

Day 11, Agra- Bharatpur / Keoladeo National park (drive).
After breakfast drive about 2hrs to Bharatour, On the way we visit the deserted sandstone buildings of Fatehpur Sikri. In Bharatpur we stay in a delightful Heritage hotel. Punctuated by the incessant “chatter, whistle and cheep” of innumerable species of birds, the wetlands of Keoladeo present a scene of raucous calm. Once the hunting preserve of the Bharatpur royalty, this exceptional ecosystem is now one of the finest bird sanctuaries on planet Earth, which has been declared a Ramsar Site, as well as World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Keoladeo National Park was previously known as Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary and lies 174 km from Delhi and only 50 km from Agra. If Taj Mahal is “rhapsody in marble” then definitely Keoladeo is a “ballad of birds”. Located at the confluence of Gambhir and Banganga rivers and spread over 29km2 of shallow lakes and woodlands, Keoladeo National Park provides shelter to over 300 avian species, particularly during winter when the resident numbers multiply as a result of migrants. The freshwater swamp with the picturesque Kadam trees, stands of Acacia and profuse aquatic vegetation, is a habitat of various living organisms, which serve as food for the different species of animals. Two-thirds of the birds listed in Keoladeo are land birds while one-third of the species are water birds. Pintails, teals, mallards, pochards, geese, coots, storks, curlews and sandpipers can be seen in the lake; the heronry at Keoladeo is indeed one of the finest in the world, with 14 species nesting and breeding in the Park. The woodlands and pastures are alive with the gambolling of bulbuls, babblers, sunbirds, sparrows, parakeets and orioles, while the skies are set on fire by the birds of prey like the eagles, hawks, harriers, falcons, buzzards and vultures. However the rarest bird, which visits Keoladeo National Park from faraway Siberia is the globally threatened Siberian Crane (Grus leucogeranus); in fact these wetlands are the only wintering area of the western population of this beautiful, endangered bird. But all is not “feather and crow” in Keoladeo. Non-feathered members of this largely feathered fraternity are mammals such as the Wild Boar, Sambar, Nilgai, Chital, Mongoose, Otter, three species of wild cats, Civets, Jackals and also the gigantic Rock Pythons that live beyond the Temple of Keoladeo in the heart of the Park. Afternoon visit to the Park in Cycle Rickshaws with Naturalist.

Breakfast in local restaurant and overnight in hotel.

Day 12, Bharatpur – Ranthambhore National Park (train).
Early morning visit to the Park and take boat ride (this is not guaranteed and will depend upon water level in the wetland area). Evening train at 1800hrs from Bharatpur to Ranthambhore National Park is an awesome reminder of the great jungles that once clothed Central India; its horizon marked by a thousand-year-old fort, which stands in stoic silence, keeping eternal vigil over the magnificent forests sprawled in its shadow. This fort was once the centre of a Hindu kingdom and bears the scars of several wars and military sieges. The 400km2 Ranthambhore National Park famous for its tigers was the hunting ground of the Kachhwaha rulers of Jaipur and has a rich plant and animal life. Its dry deciduous jungles were amongst the first nine National Parks to be brought under Project Tiger in 1973. Some 450 species of plants provide sustenance to its herbivores that are hunted for food by the carnivores, thus keeping the circle of life in motion. The 22 species of mammals listed here include the Leopard, Sloth Bear, Hyena, Jungle Cat, Caracal, Sambar, Chital, Nilgai, Indian Hare, Wild Boar and Mongoose besides its prime attraction – the Royal Bengal Tiger. Nearly 300 species of birds have been recorded here and the Park’s avifauna includes – Painted Stork, Black Stork, White-necked Stork, Spoonbill, Bonelli’s Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle, Grey Partridge, Painted Partridge, Sandgrouse, Spurfowl, Common Peafowl, Pheasant-tailed Jaçana, Great Indian Horned Owl, Indian Treepie, Paradise Flycatcher, and Stork-billed Kingfisher among others. Prehistoric looking Marsh Crocodiles can be seen in and around the lakes that dot the rugged countryside of this extraordinary National Park and more than a dozen varieties of reptiles are found in the forests of Ranthambhore.

Breakfast, dinner and overnight in hotel.

Day 13, Ranthambhore Jeep safari.
Early morning and evening jeep safari to view wildlife with Naturalist. Afternoon visit to the Fort or just relax by the pool. Breakfast, lunch, dinner and overnight in Resort.

Breakfast, lunch, dinner and overnight in hotel.

Day 14, Ranthambhore – Jaipur (drive)
Early morning jeep safari: after breakfast drive to Jaipur about 3hrs. Afternoon free to realx in your hotel garden. Overnight in delightful Heritage hotel.

Breakfast and overnight in hotel.

Day 15, Jaipur:
This morning we drive to nearby Amber, ascending by elephant to see the 16th century hilltop fortress – Palace and its richly decorated apartments. Ascend to the ancient Rajput capital of Amber, this fort palace was begun by Raja Man Singh and used by the Rajputs as their stronghold until Sawai Jai Singh II moved to the newly created Jaipur. You will visit the palace and its many intricate chambers and hallways, which has breathtaking views of the Jal Mahal (Water palace) below. In the afternoon we visit City Palace, still inhabited by Jai Singh’s descendants is a superb fusion of Rajput and Mughal architecture. A city within a city, it includes the Govind Deo Temple, the Jantar Mantar astronomical observatory and the Maharaja’s museum with his personal collection of weaponry, miniature paintings, royal attire and jewellery. On the periphery of the Palace stands the Hawa Mahal, the Palace of Winds, an elaborate pink sandstone façade behind which the ladies of the court used to watch the daily goings on in the street below.

Breakfast & Overnight in Hotel

Day 16: Jaipur-Delhi ( drive about 250kms)
After breakfast drive to Delhi about 5hrs and stay overnight in delightful 5 star eco-tel hotel, with beautiful gardens and swimming pool. Afternoon is yours to shop, visit Qutub Minar etc. fare well dinner and overnight in hotel.

Day 17: Departure;
early morning departure for your return flight.

Suggested extension wildlife and relaxation tour

Relax and unwind on India’s finest Beach Resort at Neeleshwar (Kerala) , which also offer great birding tours and The beach is about 12 kilometre stretch on which a rare and beautiful species of turtle is battling for survival. This is the Olive Ridley, named for the delicate olive color of its heart-shaped shell. One of the smallest of the sea turtles, with adults reaching 2 to 2½ feet in length and weighing 80 to 110 pounds, the Olive Ridley is now an endangered species.

Between August and March each year the females visit our beach at the full moon to lay their eggs, which they bury up to a metre in the sand. Between six and eight weeks later, again at night, the eggs hatch. The newborn hatchlings struggle gamely to make their way to the sea, their tiny heads bobbing above the waves as they swim far out into the moonlit water. For the next 20-25 years they will swim thousands of miles around the oceans of the world, before the females return for the first time to the very same beach to lay their eggs; the males also return after 30 years.

But these amazing figures also tell a sad story: though eight out of ten eggs hatch, only 1 out of 1000 hatchlings that make it to the ocean survive. Birds, large fish, diminishing breeding habitat and food stocks are not their only enemies; humans have traditionally harvested eggs, fresh hatchlings and adult turtles.

Fortunately, at Neeleshwar there is now a local volunteer NGO group that collects the eggs [totalling 7000 in 2006], takes them to a protected hatchery 2 kms south along the beach, and supervises the safe return of the hatchlings to the sea.

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